18 Curve And Plus

Aug 08, 2023

By Hannah Jackson

The runway has long catered to waifish ideals. Across 219 shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan, Vogue Business reported that only 17 brands featured plus-size models – a statistic that reflects the true lack of size diversity in fashion and the refusal of brands to consider the realities of women’s bodies. (According to a 2016 study from the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology, and Education, the average American woman wears a size 16-18 [UK size 20-22].) There is a similar, growing desire to represent people who fall into the “curve” or “mid-size” range, which is generally defined as US sizes 6-10 (UK sizes 10-14). While still considered “straight size” – meaning, in part, that they can find their size at many retailers and brands – many curve models are unable to fit into sample sizes while not qualifying as plus.

But these days, in spite of the many obstacles, plus-size and curve models are some of the most recognisable faces in fashion. Ashley Graham has become a household name; British Vogue anointed Paloma Elsesser, Precious Lee, and curve model Jill Kortleve “the new supers”; Yumi Nu graced the cover of the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue. But even with this increase in visibility, there is still a long way to go.

“I urge fashion to never let this momentum [cease] until seeing bodies and experiences like mine and beyond are no longer radical, no longer different; no longer rare,” Elsesser wrote on Instagram after she appeared on the January 2021 cover of American Vogue. “I want to see bigger bodied femmes, dark skin femmes, disabled people, and all the iterations of identity that have left so many alone in media.”

Below, Vogue has rounded up some of the most game-changing curve and plus-size models in the industry. You may recognise them from the runways of New York Fashion Week to the covers of your favourite magazines. If you don’t know their names already, you will soon.

Agency: IMG

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Los Angeles, US

One of the most prolific models of her generation, the 2020 Model of the Year winner has already nabbed a handful of worldwide Vogue covers and has walked the runways for everybody from Fendi to Alexander McQueen.

Agency: IMG

Hometown: Lincoln, US

Graham has become a household name thanks to her modelling chops and her growing status as a TV personality. She made history as the first plus-size model to cover Sports Illustrated, and that same year was a Forbes “30 Under 30” honouree.

Agency: IMG

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Atlanta, US

One of the most prominent plus-size models working today, Lee can be found anywhere from the Met Gala to strutting down the runway in Jean Paul Gaultier couture to starring in a Marc Jacobs fragrance ad.

Agencies: The Movement, IMG, Muse, Women, Milk

Hometown: Heerlen, The Netherlands

Kortleve first rose to fame when she made her runway debut for Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2019 show. One year later, Kortleve was the first plus-size model to walk the runway for Chanel since 2010’s cruise show. “There’s a much needed change happening on the runway and I’m proud and feel grateful to be a part of it,” she wrote on Instagram.

Agency: IMG

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Beaumont, US

With her bright red hair and milkmaid complexion, Tess McMillan automatically stands out. She’s walked the runway in Gucci’s Love Parade and has nabbed campaigns for Balmain, MAC, Carolina Herrera, and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Agency: The Society, Elite

Hometown: Hastings, UK

Ralph stays incredibly busy between walking for Emilio Pucci, Alexander McQueen and Max Mara’s most recent shows and shooting editorials for Vogue France, Harper’s Bazaar, and CR Fashion Book. The British model can also be spotted in Neiman Marcus’s Pre-Fall ad.

Agencies: Next, Chic

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Georgetown, US

The American model has recently become a Victoria’s Secret go-to, starring in several of the rebooted brand’s ads. Huffine has credited Steven Meisel with helping kickstart her career: the famed photographer shot her for the cover of Vogue Italia and named her one of his “Calendar Girls” for the 2015 Pirelli Calendar.

Agencies: The Society, Elite

Hometown: Englewood, US

Nu broke through then she was the first-ever Asian-American plus-size model to cover the legendary Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue. But the 2021 Breakout Star nominee has plenty of other impressive accolades under her belt. At just 24, she was featured on the September 2021 cover of Vogue alongside Bella Hadid, Precious Lee, and Kaia Gerber.

Agency: DNA

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Miami, US

From walking Jacquemus’s Versailles runway to booking covers of Harper's Bazaar, i-D, and Porter all in a year, we can’t wait to see what Garcia does next.

Agencies: Next, Milk, pavé, Priscilla’s, Red Eleven

Hometown: Auckland, New Zealand

Emery has found success in both print and runway. She’s walked for Valentino haute couture and shared a cover of Harper’s Bazaar Australia with Gemma Ward. Emery has also shown up in high profile campaigns including a 2022 Calvin Klein underwear ad.

Agency: IMG

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: London, UK

The 2020 Breakout Star nominee has kept busy over the last few years. She has featured in multiple British Vogue issues this year alone, and can also be found in this summer’s Marc Jacobs Daisy Drops perfume ad. She, along with Kortleve and Lee, also made history as the first plus-size models to walk for Versace.

Agencies: JAG, IMM, LaDrew

Hometown: Brantford, Ontario, Canada

While today you may find her walking for Christian Siriano and Peter Do, Chan was formerly the fashion features editor at Glamour, where she won an American Society of Magazine Editors Award. Her return to modelling coincided with the creation of her plus-size fashion brand, Henning, which was acquired by Universal Standard earlier this year. Chan has also racked up an impressive reputation for advocacy as an ambassador for National Eating Disorders Association and a member of the Model Alliance.

Agency: Next

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: New York, US

Hariri-Kia has been involved at fashion on every level. As a student at the University of St Andrews in Scotland, she organised the school’s famous fashion show Don’t Walk. Since then she’s modelled for Gen-Z underwear brand Parade and landed an editorial in the summer 2023 issue of i-D.

Agency: IMG

Hometown: Auckland, New Zealand

Having posed for the likes of Vogue Italia and walked the runway for Christian Siriano, Pratt made her own foray into fashion, starting the brand Hilda Ereaut.

Agency: The Industry, Oui, Milk, Fabbricia, Uno

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Milan, Italy

This curve model shows no signs of slowing down. With recent runway stints for Chanel, Nina Ricci, and Max Mara, and a fresh Vogue France cover under her belt, Daing is poving herself a rising star in the industry.

Agency: Muse, Milk, Mad

Hometown: Guadalajara, Mexico

The Mexican model has both a successful runway and editorial career. She’s strutted down the catwalk for Christian Siriano and Peter Do, and recently debuted a Fenty Beauty campaign.

Agencies: Ford, Milk, Natural

By Eva Wiseman

By Emma Spedding

By Ellie Pithers

Hometown: Paris, France

Sidora has graced international covers from Elle Sweden to Harper’s Bazaar Brazil. Earlier this year she featured in an Elle editorial. She may be best recognised, however, from walking in Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty show.

Agency: Muse, TESS, CAA

Hometown: Miami, US

Bidot broke through when she walked for Chromat’s spring/summer 2015 and has been a regular presence on the brand’s runways ever since. The model has also landed campaigns for Levi’s, Olay, and Savage X Fenty.